The right ingredients can make or break a formulation. After all, shoppers today are seeking key components in their beauty products that promote health and skin vitality—think manuka honey or hyaluronic acid.

Or, like with chips, one might not be enough. A combination of powerhouse components working together to support beauty benefits like anti-aging or anti-acne might be the key to that winning SKU.

According to Tiffany Hogan, principal analyst at Kantar, Columbus, OH, there are so many “hot” ingredients that change so rapidly in beauty that it’s difficult to name just a few. She instead suggests looking at them in different categories.

“Broadly, we’re seeing interest spike in products using vitamins like vitamin C or E and foods like kale or avocado,” she told Happi.

To start, mass market leader Olay utilizes vitamins such as B3 in its formulas to get results. According to the company, one jar of the Olay Regenerist Micro-Sculpting Cream contains as much vitamin B3 as 2,500 cups of kale.

“Vitamin B3 is a true multi-tasking skin vitamin, clinically shown to visibly reduce lines and wrinkles, redness and blotchiness, dark spots and the appearance of pores,” said Olay’s Principal Scientist Dr. Frauke Neuser. “It also boosts skin exfoliation while strengthening skin’s natural moisture barrier.”

According to Neuser, Olay scientists have researched vitamin B3 for more than a quarter of a century.

“Vitamin B3 is one of the best studied and most proven skin care ingredients. It helps improve skin’s texture, tone and radiance, and is suitable for most skin types,” she said.

Harnessing the power of flowers, Avon is introducing its first holistic approach to anti-aging skin care with Isa Knox Anew LX Ultimate. Launching this month with skin-nourishing ingredients, the products are infused with paeonol, a unique extract harvested at its peak from rare peonies and processed through an exclusive technology. The peony flowers have been cultivated without pesticides for 10 years and the flowers are harvested only within a 10-day period in spring to maximize the quality and content of the active compound inside, according to Avon. To capture the best moment of peonies, every single petal is treated thoroughly by applying unique skills of tea processing—the floral curing technology.

According to the company, the range is enriched with anti-aging ingredients and specially formulated to visibly diminish wrinkles and improve the appearance of skin texture, tone and clarity. The products include a serum, night cream, day cream and eye serum.

Through recent advances in hair growth peptides and vitamins, long, luscious and thick lashes can be achieved without the need for potentially-harmful procedures and high costs with Actsyl -L Lash Growth Treatment, the latest product in the Actsyl family of specialty hair loss products specifically designed for women.

Formulated with ingredients that are proven to increase lash length, add thickness and reduce lash loss, Actsyl-L delivers results. Achieve noticeably thicker and fuller lashes within four weeks and experience a dramatic 45% increase in lash density in eight weeks, according to the company.

The powerful ingredients in Actsyl-L can promote lash growth, improve lash thickness and even help reverse the damage caused by lash extensions. Specially formulated with capixyl, an amino acid and peptide blend that works to block DHT (the main culprit in hair loss), it works to increase lash count and thickness dramatically. Other powerful ingredients like acetyl tetrapeptide-3, hyaluronic acid and biotin work to increase the size of hair follicles for more strength and less fall out and promote hydration and aid in the development of keratin.


Mix It Up

Boasting results within weeks and the youthful look to prove it, celebrity wellness expert Suzanne Somers took time from her busy schedule on July 21 to Zoom with national beauty editors regarding her latest skin care innovation, Suzanne Organics Skin Care’s Neck Firming Serum with Tightening Peptide Formula. Paired with the Neck Firming Crème in a duo, the all natural organic formulations firm the neck while smoothing and reducing the visible appearance of wrinkles.

In the serum, the collagen and elastin fibers work like a crystal cobweb of proteins to support the structure of the skin, providing immediate and long term benefits for aging skin. Aloe barbadensis (aloe vera) leaf juice is key for moisturization along with hyaluronic acid smoothing out the appearance of wrinkles in the process. The product also contains vitamins B1, B2, B6 and C, niacinamide, choline and 18 amino acids.

“I’m liking the way I am aging because I feel good,” said Somers, who is 73 and a proponent of clean living. “Products that are health enhancing are paramount.”

The latest creation at Murad is an oil-free, non-comedogenic, water-light hydrator gel. Its new Murad Clarifying Oil-Free Water Gel purifies, refines and interrupts bacteria signals that can lead to irritated skin. According to the clinical wellness brand, it’s all about the technology driving this new formulation. Dr. Howard Murad, founder, told Happi, “This product is very unique because it actually is able to disrupt and prevent communication between bacteria on your skin.”

In the formulation, sustained release of hyaluronic acid enhances skin’s ability to attract and hold water deep within its surface for intense, long-lasting hydration; ginger root extract comforts and soothes; salicylic acid helps exfoliate, refine and smooth; and Korean red pine extract interrupts bacteria signals that can lead to irritated skin.

“The lack of communication results in a healthy, balanced microbiome with clearer-looking, hydrated, and healthier-looking skin,” Dr. Murad added. “The key ingredients work together and prevent bacteria from communicating, while keeping your microbiome balanced, resulting in fewer irritations, this could include redness, dryness, oiliness and more, along with traditional breakouts.”

Always 100% organic, cruelty-free and handmade, Elina Organics has launched Crushed Copper Purifying Mask. This deeply purifying mask contains the star ingredient Copper Powder, which is said to be pathogen-fighting and skin-renewing. In addition to its antiseptic and healing properties, copper helps to firm and rebuild the skin by stimulating the regeneration of proteins, according to the company.

“Copper has a strong antibacterial effect and it helps to fight acne-causing bacteria. It also has anti-fungal and anti-viral properties which makes it wonderful for preventing break outs,” explained Elina Fedotova, cosmetic chemist, celebrity esthetician and founder of Elina Organics. “It is proven to firm the skin by stimulating collagen regeneration which makes it wonderful to fight signs of aging. Copper powder also helps to gently polish skin to create immediate glow.

The mask also contains activated charcoal with kaolin clay. The pair works together “like a magnet” to draw out impurities and toxins from pores, according to the brand. The formula is also enhanced with the addition of fulvic acid. It helps to reduce scarring and discolorations with an essential blend of trace minerals and electrolytes. Fulvic acid also improves skin’s protective barrier, balances the microbiome, and helps to prevent future breakouts. Finally, diatomaceous earth nourishes, polishes and detoxifies skin with a synergistic blend of nutrients.

Maxus Nails, a premium cruelty-free vegan nail care line, launched Jojobalieve It, a natural nail butter to nourish and strengthen needy nails, starting at their base. The rich, silky, non-greasy daily treatment combats peeling, soft, and dry nails in both hands and feet.

According to the company, Jojobalieve is the first of its kind pure jojoba-based moisturizing formula on the market. Additionally, fortified with hemp seed, lavender, and vitamin E, each ingredient has been proven to be beneficial for both the skin and nails. Essential fatty acids that are present closely resemble the composition of skin’s own natural moisture, which makes this botanical butter instantly melt on contact with the skin. Cheaper synthetic emollients, which simply coat the surface of the nails and skin, leave a slippery after-feel and actually block the skin’s ability to release its natural waste products, inhibiting nail growth.

“A healthy, strong nail starts with at the foundation,” said licensed nail technician and Maxus Nails Founder Dasha Minina. “Women are having fewer salon services as of late, and may be rethinking their gels and acrylics. Instead of covering up structural problems, we created this nurturing, energizing butter so nails can go natural and still look good.”

Learning Your CBDs

Not all CBD is created equal, even though this ingredient continues to be on trend this year in formulating. According to Clare Hennigan, senior beauty analyst, Mintel, hemp and CBD have taken over the beauty space, with products containing these ingredients found in nearly every beauty category. In fact, 29% of women who use beauty products have heard of hemp seed oil and look for it in the products they purchase, and 26% have heard of hemp CBD and look for it in the products they purchase.

“Not only are these ingredients on-trend due to their perceived emotive benefits like relaxation, but due to their physical benefits as well,” she told Happi.

Indie brand Spice Beauty, Los Angeles, uses CBD derived from a specific strain of the hemp plant called PCR (phytocannabinoid rich), which is grown exclusively in the US under strict guidelines to ensure the very highest potency and consistency. Once the plants are ready, they are processed and undergo a proprietary extraction and purification process using supercritical CO2. This results in the highest quality broad spectrum CBD on the market. Finally, Spice Beauty removes all traces of THC and other unwanted compounds like chlorophyll, waxes, and plant pigments. And because of its strict independent testing, Spice Beauty says consumers can be sure that the products are organic and free of harmful chemicals, microbes and pesticides.

“Not all CBD is the same because not all hemp is the same. A lot of CBD out there is produced from industrial hemp that is intended for use in fibers and textiles and contains little CBD,” said Brenda Sandoval Zorkin, Spice Beauty founder. “In contrast, our CBD is derived from a specific strain of the hemp plant called PCR hemp. PCR means phytocannabinoid rich. And rich it is — PCR contains as much as 10 times the concentration of CBD as generic industrial hemp.”

Rolled out last month, the one-part gloss, one-part lip treatment WLDKAT Hyaluronic Acid + Vitamin A+E Lip Gel not only feels extra luxe, but hydrates and soothes like a treatment, said the company. Lip Gel is laced with 50MG of broad-spectrum CBD, along with the hyaluronic acid. vitamins A and E even out color and soften the appearance of lines, while boosting circulation and helping lips appear softer over time.

With summer winding down, it is the best time to get a post-summer glow, according to brands like I+I Botanicals, which offers a Dry Oil Body Mist that mimics the natural oils found in the skin and hair to leave the body feeling nourished and refreshed. The formulation is carefully crafted to quickly absorb into the skin and provide an effortless, hydrated glow that won’t clog pores or leave a greasy feeling. The formula contains nutrient-dense moringa oil, which is nourishing and helps to moisturize and hydrate skin.

I+I Botanicals also offers energizing CBD Coffee Body Scrub as an ideal body pick me up for gently scrubbing away dead skin cells, increasing blood flow and reducing the appearance of cellulite to give skin an even, flawless glow. Additionally, studies have shown that substances in coffee help promote healthy skin by boosting collagen levels and reducing the premature aging of cells. The product features coffee from Yirgacheffe, a town in central Ethiopia. These sought-after beans are grown at high-elevation, hand-picked and then washed for a bright, clean taste and high acidity. Prior to the roasting process, the beans that are too small are often discarded to prevent a bitter taste from over-roasting. Though not suitable for a triple latte, the indie brand hated for them to go to waste, thus giving them a new purpose! The scrub formula contains Irish moss (seaweed), a natural moisturizer that enhances the skin’s natural barrier and blocks out harmful elements. The formula also contains CBD, coconut oil and shea butter oil.

Herbivore has expanded its family of soaps with Emerald 50mg CBD Cleansing Soap Bar. This sustainable face and body cleansing bar is comprised of 50mg of full-spectrum, Colorado-grown certified organic CBD, nourishing hemp seed oil and detoxifying kaolin clay. It can be used for stressed hands, body and face.

CBD helps soothe stressed-out skin in need of redness relief, irritation and environmental stress. Hemp seed oil is a non-comedogenic oil that moisturizes, and soothes visible redness and irritation while combating the visible signs of aging with omega-3, 6 and 9 fatty acids, gamma linolenic acids and vitamin E. Kaolin clay (white clay) cleanses, detoxifies and draws out impurities while soothing sensitive and irritated skin.

More Innovations
Is body masking set to be the next popular self-care ritual? Pacifica contends it has made head-to-toe hydration easy with its new Guacamole Whip Face & Body Mask. It’s packed in a 100% PCR tub and infused with all sorts of natural green goodness: avocado oil, aloe vera, lime oil and spirulina.

Julep’s new Eye Care 101 Prime & Refresh Stick is a multifunctional cooling eye product that effortlessly depuffs and revitalizes the sensitive eye area. The lightweight, moisturizing formula is packed with aloe leaf juice, ideal for calming irritation and hydrating delicate skin naturally. The natural de-puffer also primes the eyelid and undereye for makeup application while smoothing in one easy step. 

For the wee ones, Mustela has launched an organic skin care collection with olive oil and aloe. The collection includes four clean skin care essentials: Organic Cleansing Gel, Organic Micellar Water, Organic Hydrating Cream and Diaper Cream.

The key ingredient throughout is organic olive oil, which is sourced from family-owned groves in the South of France. After harvest, the olives undergo a cold-pressed extraction process to maximize potency and skin-nourishing properties. In addition to olive oil, the products are enriched with soothing ingredients including organic aloe vera and sunflower oil. The range is vegan and completely fragrance-free. The cleansing formulas are biodegradable and all of the packaging is made from sustainably-sourced sugar cane.

Pharmaceutical K-beauty skin care brand Madeca Derma recently launched on Amazon. With more than 50 years of history rooted in medicinal heritage—which started out with the best-selling wound-care ointment—Madeca Derma says it is committed to producing clean formulas by utilizing the best skin enhancing ingredients.. The company uses the purest Centella Asiatica extract from Madagascar, which is known for healing properties, to help stimulate the production of collagen and boost hydration for younger-looking skin.

Indie beauty brand Aú Natural is utilizing manuka honey in its personal care products. According to Founder Tracy Ahern, who is based in New Zealand, “First off, they don’t call it just skin care. It truly is skin ‘nourishment’ where skin super foods like star ingredient Manuka honey balancing your microbiome, with deep hydration and many more skin health benefits.”

Manuka honey is a deep gold color and the “Au” in the brand name references the symbol for gold on the periodic table of elements. And besides its skin food formulas, Aú Natural also makes a mineral powder foundation as well as a collagen powder to accompany the topical skin care regimen.

Shower Selections
Wellness and personal care brand Dr. Teal’s expanded its offerings for the bath and shower this summer with Dr. Teal’s Essential Oil Shampoos and Conditioners. The brand already has a cult following with its Epsom Salt Soaks, and consumers will be excited to find their new products available in some familiar invigorating scents including Eucalyptus & Spearmint, Lavender, Coconut, Shea Butter, and Chamomile. Each variant of the hair cleansers includes essential oils, biotin and plant protein to help strengthen, hydrate and care for tresses. The shampoos and conditioners are suitable for all hair types and are free of sulfates to help preserve hair color. Each product is also free of parabens, silicones, phthalates and gluten. They are cruelty-free and vegan-friendly, too.

Created by entrepreneur and beauty enthusiast Pam Trice, Tress Organix is an all-natural product line that was designed to revitalize damaged hair strands transforming them into stronger, longer tresses.
“While leave-ins are lightweight and can be left in the hair, deep conditioners promise long-lasting hair treatment and repair,” said Trice.

The Tress Organix Moisturizing Bliss Deep Conditioner is ideal for deep conditioning. It contains coconut, avocado and olive oils, all of which serve to prevent breakage, improve hair elasticity and strength, and therefore aid styling. A cream like Smoothing Silk Cream with honey and hibiscus is another ideal item to use. Aside from the honey and hibiscus content of the cream, it contains provitamin B5, organic aloe leaf juice and dehydroacetic acid.

To combat heat and reduce frizz, Afro Sheen Texture Setting Cream Gel and Slick Back Cream Styler provide long lasting protection through nourishing ingredients like flaxseed oil, avocado oil and shea butter.

New for Fall 2020 from Italian soap manufacturer Saponificio Varesino (SV 1945), the Botanical Defence Collection uses powerful botanical antibacterial and antiviral extracts found in nature to protect the skin. Containing three 3.5oz soaps, the Botanical Defence Soap Set is packed with echinacea extracts, traditionally used to heal wounds and treat bacterial infections; uncaria, known for its anti-inflammatory and antiviral properties; tea tree extract from the leaves of Melaleuca trees that are known to have strong antifungal effects; and garlic, which is proven to help kill bacteria and viruses.

This collection includes the Botanical Defence Liquid Wash. Safe to use on the face, hands and body, this botanical enriched cleanser contains the same tea tree extract used in soap set, as well as high quality essential lemon oil, known for its antimicrobial and antibacterial benefits for a deep and safe cleanse.

Up Next
So, what to expect for 2021? The continued success of natural ingredients, among other trends.

“Sustainability-marketed products are a key to winning with Millennials and Generation Z,” said Larry Levin, executive vice president, market and shopper intelligence, IRI. “Leveraging the goodness of your company with compelling brand stories is an opportunity to build long-standing relationships with these important segments.”

COVID-19 will have a direct impact on the types of ingredients consumers seek in their beauty products, now and in the future, noted Hennigan of Mintel. For example, wearing a protective facial mask can result in acne and irritation. As a result, expect to see an increased demand for “smoothing and soothing” ingredients. This includes well-known AHAs and BHAs to target acne, and ingredients such as cica, oat and aloe to calm irritation.

Also, as most industry experts encourage use of SPF, expect the conversation surrounding the active ingredients in sunscreen to heat up too, according to Hennigan.

Throughout the pandemic, consumers turned to medical experts for guidance.

“In the case of beauty, this has led to a rise in expert beauty influencers on social media, like dermatologists and cosmetic chemists,” noted Hennigan. “The growing reliance on industry experts for beauty information will see increased demand for ‘proven’ safe and effective ingredients.”